On the Lofoten Islands, even a simple drive by car is always an experience. On the way back from our hike on Ryten, we catch sight of a magnificent peak as we cross the curved bridges from Fredvang towards Ramberg. Volandstinden rises up in front of us like a pointed needle and looks somehow impregnable, at least from this perspective. "Is there any way up there?" Of course, this is Falko's first reaction when an interesting peak comes into view and a quick glance at the digital map reveals that there is indeed a path leading up there. However, from our point of view, it is via the back side, i.e. from the south, which is far less impressive but no less beautiful. Looks like a plan.
Recovered from the hike up Ryten and after a hearty Sunday breakfast, we pack our trail running rucksacks and lace up our running shoes to put our plan into action. A good 40 minutes' drive later, we are standing at the foot of Volandstinden with a cold wind whistling around our noses. But by now we have become accustomed to the "7° C and windy" weather, i.e. the Nordic spring. We have decided to tackle Volandstinden from the east. On the one hand, we are not yet familiar with this route and on the other hand, the ascent via the west side, which leads past Geitedalsvatnet, is quite damp and muddy, as we found out on an evening photo excursion last year. The path on the east side, on the other hand, turns out to be solid. The first few meters in altitude are not exactly perfect trail running terrain, rocky, bumpy and a little difficult to run, but after around 200 meters in altitude, this is forgotten.
From Nesheia, the path heads straight north, first over the broad ridge and later along the ridge. While Falko runs forwards or backwards with his camera, I try to find my rhythm and struggle with the terrain. The trail is rough and stony almost everywhere and somewhat technically demanding, but the effort is worth it in the end, because the view from the summit or even from the slightly lower peak in front of it is simply stunning. Torsfjortinden, Ryten and Fuglhuken are lined up on the left, while Stjerntinden, Stortinden and Moltinden tower up on the right. In between, on the right-hand side, lies the picturesque village of Ramberg with its sandy beach in the turquoise and white colors typical of the Lofoten Islands. On the left, the imposing bridges Kubholmenleia bru and Røssøystraumen bru span several small islands and provide an uncomplicated connection across to Fredvang.
The beautiful landscape, the winding roads and bridges and the many small, colorful wooden houses look like a miniature landscape from up here, and we would love to sit here forever and watch the hustle and bustle. But the incessant wind doesn't care about our wishes. As we are just standing around, snacking on muesli bars and not moving around much, we get cold relatively quickly after the strenuous climb. So, with a heavy heart, we tear ourselves away from the fascinating sight and make our way back.
We return to the main summit via short, steep and sloping passages and continue along the path towards the valley. The stony path also requires our full attention on the descent and quickly makes us forget our cold fingers. At Nesheia, we turn left and bypass some boggy patches before we reach the road again over rough and smooth.
As steep, forbidding and unconquerable as Volandstinden looks from the north, it is easy to climb from the south. Anyone looking for a short but challenging trail run or simply a destination for a hike with spectacular views will find a needle in a haystack at this peak.
