Piz Palü (3,900 m) is one of the most impressive peaks in the Bernina Group and a magnet for alpinists from all over the world. With its three striking peaks and mighty glacier flanks, it offers a backdrop that inspires both awe and a thirst for adventure. The mountain lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy and is a breathtaking sight, especially from the Diavolezza side. But Piz Palü is not only fascinating from a scenic point of view - its climbing history stretches back over a century and reflects the changing face of alpinism.
The conquest of an alpine classic
The first ascent of Piz Palü was made on August 12, 1866 by alpinists Kenelm Edward Digby, Peter Jenny and Johann Maria Badrutt. They chose the ascent via the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers, a route that is still one of the classic routes to the summit today. At that time, the high mountains were still largely unexplored and expeditions to these regions were a risk. With the simplest of equipment and no secured routes, Piz Palü was a challenge to be taken seriously.
In the decades that followed, the mountain was climbed by numerous alpinists, including famous mountaineers such as the Swiss Andreas Fischer, who was intensively involved with the region in the early 1900s. Piz Palü became particularly well known thanks to the German mountain film “Die weisse Hölle vom Piz Palü” (1929), which finally turned it into a myth.
Piz Palü today - a dream destination for alpinists
Today, Piz Palü is one of the most popular tour destinations in the Eastern Alps. The classic ascent is usually made from the Diavolezza side, with the mountain station at 2,973 meters providing an ideal starting point. From here, the route leads over the Pers Glacier to the eastern summit, which at 3,882 meters is the highest point of the mountain massif. Crossing the summit ridge is a spectacular experience, but requires absolute surefootedness, a head for heights and alpine experience.
The region also offers unique experiences for less experienced mountain enthusiasts. The view of Piz Palü and the surrounding glaciers from the Diavolezza panoramic terrace is an incomparable natural spectacle - especially at sunrise or during full moon ascents.
Piz Palü is a mountain that has made history and continues to fascinate people to this day. Whether as an alpine destination or as a backdrop for unforgettable moments in the Swiss Alps - its majestic sight leaves no one unmoved.
